given to NIFT Mumbai, was an effort to incorporate innovation in cluster
that aspires to provide a roadmap for cluster practitioners.
times of the kings, through the British Raj, till a formalized peak in
the years following 1920, the cotton handloom industry of Waraseoni has
thus far imbibed the growing demands of the markets and carved out a
niche base for creating livelihoods that support and supplement the
incomes of countless families. In addition to this is the emphasis of
silk – the foundation and progress of the start to end production and
manufacture of tussar silk.
and develop a design identity that provides equity to Waraseoni is
indeed a task that shall elaborate the true culture and inspiration that
defines the society that is woven into the fabric of dedication.
Selari Sari Reshmi Jote Sari
Patta Kinar sari
One has to constantly remind oneself that the weaver is an artist, a
musician, and his loom - aninstrument of music. He is powerfully aware
of every nuance of the weave and energises the rhythm of the loom to
coax it into reproducing the finest music in textiles. The raga is
established as he throws the shuttle through the tautly stretched warp
threads, back and forth, over and over again. He beats the warp
rhythmically, keeping taal. The wooden pedal is depressed to synchronise
the throwing of the shuttles. The bamboo reeds are his wind chimes. All
his senses of touch, sight and sound come into play during this play of
divine music, a reverential piece of art. Each expression has its own
language and its own interpretation, an expression which deserves to be
respected and admired for all time.
There is hardly a village where weavers do not exist, each weaving out
the traditional beauty of India's own precious heritage.
Hattaares situated in the Balaghat district of Madhya Pradesh. Weaving
is one of the main occupations of the people of Mehndiwada, Beni, Hatta.
Since ages, these villages are renowned for the cotton saris produced
there; especially for their quality but with the passage of time this
craft is now on the verge of extinction. Nowadays silk has taken place
of cotton. Now in the present scenario there are around 150 looms in
Mehndiwara, Beni, Hatta and people are still practicing this craft.
MadhyaPradesh is famous for Chanderi, Maheshwari and Waraseoni Tussar
Cotton Saris of Waraseoni
Waraseoni area, originally part of ancient Vidharbha, is the beginning
of a vast cotton growing and weaving belt that stretches into
neighboring Maharashtra. The Waraseoni area has been renowned for its
fine count saris mainly 80 - 100s counts for years. Waraseoni handloom
cluster has a history dating more than 100 years since the time of King
Raghuji Bousle. It was his royal patronage that led to the flourishing
handloom activity in the 1920s. During this phase, the weavers produced
many varieties of cotton saris such as Jot, Mukty, Miradani, Mungiya,
Partya, Ruiful etc., with 10 - 20s count yarns. In the 1950s cotton
saris were produced in around 300 looms, mainly producing patterns.
Hatta and Janta Saris of Waraseoni goes with a legend that they could be
used for 2 years on daily basis and could be later cut or joined used in
case it gave way in the posterior. The saris had a double aanchal ,
which mwant that they could be worn both ways and thus lasted longer.
During the initial phases 9 meter Maharashtrian saris were produced.
The increased importance of sericulture has of late been the focus of
the state government of Madhya Pradesh when considering the cluster of
Waraseoni. The cluster was identified to provide sustenance to the
languishing cotton weavers and improve the economy.
In Waraseoni area Tussar Silk is cultivated prominently. All processes
from rearing of cocoons through weaving till sales at its formalized
outlet is at Waraseoni. Tussar Silk, also known as Kosa Silk, is valued
for its purity and texture. It is drawn from cocoons especially grown on
Arjun, Saja or Sal trees. It is available naturally in shades of
gold-pale, dark, honey, tawny, tobacco to beige, creamy, etc.
15-Flower with inlay work
19 – Jangleedar (Fence)
20 – Leher (Wave)
21 – Jai Phool
Eight petaled flower
23 – KairiButi (Mango)
25 – Six petaled flower
27 – JuhiPhool
the saris of the Waraseoni cluster have been a brief mix and match of
reigning designs. The motifs used were RuiPhool, Jai Phool – floral,
Karavati, DoubleKaravati – Saw Faced, and Shahpuri with Gom - Arrowhead.
The borders were from 1.5 to 5 inches in width and were measured using
finger width (ungals). The pallu often had a Karvat/Kumbh – Temple
The Baal saris had a silk warp and a cotton weft weave. It
popularly had a 7 inch silk double flower pattern border called ‘Do
dhadiruiphool’ border. If the same sari was checked, it was referred to
as the Kothisari.