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Geographical Indicator Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh



Mr. Mahesh Gulati, National expert, UNIDO Chanderi spent an afternoon at the Craft Revival Trust office telling us about his work to develop the Chanderi Craft cluster since 2003.

While the application and successful allocation of the GI for Chanderi is a major step in protecting the craft and its identity and is a useful tool for marketing, authenticating the Chanderi brand, Mr. Gulati has been working towards the upliftment of the craft and the craftspeople on many levels. On his arrival at Chanderi, he conducted a SWAT analysis, identified and developed an action plan with the involvement of the stakeholders – 10,000 families are involved in the textile production at Chanderi and there are 3659 looms in use. The action plan included among others - cluster mapping and developing a database, micro-finance schemes and economic development, social development and vision building (there are 60 self-help groups today in Chanderi), technical and product upgradation, marketing and sourcing new markets.

What will make Mr. Gulati’s intervention last in the long term is that from the start he involved the local stake holders. He established the Chanderi Development Foundation comprising of 11 representatives from all the communities involved in the Chanderi textile, from weavers to traders, women to yarn manufactures. This ensures that after his transfer in June 2006, the work he has done at Chanderi will continue.

Mr. Gulati categorically stated that it is very difficult for a craft community to apply for the GI without the assistance of an NGO or enlightened individual. Though it is not hard to get the GI, it does require organization and cooperation. With craftspeople viewing each other as rivals in a small and diminishing market, the level of dialogue and cooperation required makes it an impossible feat for a craft cluster to achieve on their own. He has shared with us the document they prepared for the application of the GI which was awarded in November 2005. We bring you this document.

Note: The Annexures will added when CRT recieves them. Please check in a week.



APPLICATION FOR THE REGISTRATION OF A GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION IN PART A OF THE REGISTER

SECTION 11(1) RULE 23(2)
  1. Application is hereby made by for the registration in Part A of the Register of the accompanying geographical indication furnishing the following particulars: -

    1. NAME OF THE APPLICANT:
      Chanderi Development Foundation

    2. ADDRESS:
      Old Telephone Exchange Building, Rajghat Road, Chanderi, Madhya Pradesh, India

    3. LIST OF ASSOCIATION OF PERSONS / PRODUCERS / ORGANIZATION / AUTHORITY:
      A detailed List containing list of Traders, Master Weavers, Weavers, Cooperative societies etc involved in the production, marketing and trading of the Chanderi Fabric is annexed to this application and is marked as Annexure A.

    4. TYPE OF GOODS:
      A detailed List of various products i.e. Sarees, Dress material, Fabric etc. is annexed to this application and is marked as Annexure B.

    5. SPECIFICATION:
      Specification is also mentioned in Annexure B.

    6. NAME OF THE GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATION [AND PARTICULARS]:
      CHANDERI FABRIC: It is used for last more than 500 years for manufacturing sarees, Pagrees, Dupatas, Dress material, ladies suits, Handloom material etc.

    7. DESCRIPTION OF THE GOODS:

      CLAUSE 24 of the G.I. Rules: -
      Chanderi fabric is in existence for last more than 500 years for manufacturing sarees, Pagrees, Dress material, ladies suits, Handloom etc. Its products are famous all over the country and as well in the international market. Needless to say that Chanderi products are well known by its name and reputation.

    8. GEOGRAPHICAL AREA OF PRODUCTION AND MAP:
      The certified copy of the map is annexed herewith and is marked as Annexure C.

    9. PROOF OF ORIGIN [HISTORICAL RECORDS]:
      The Government gazetteer also mentions in detail about the Chanderi Fabric and its products, which has been used since the Moghul era. Even in the Imperial Gazetteer of India the Chanderi silk Sarees are specifically mentioned. The copies of the Gazette maintained and issued by the Govt. of Madhya Pradesh and the copy of the relevant portion of the Imperial Gazetteer of India are annexed herewith and is marked as Annexure D.

    10. METHOD OF PRODUCTION:

      1. Procurement of raw – material: the master weaver purchases the raw material from the yarn dealers who in turn get the silk from Karnataka. The silk yarn used is largely imported Chinese or Korean silk. The cotton yarn is procured from places like Coimbatore in southern India, and Jaipur and is usually pre-dyed. The yarn dealers of cotton also often get customized colors dyed as per the requirement of the master weaver. However the minimum quantity required for such dyeing is almost 25 kgs. or 10 hanks.

      2. The dyeing in Chanderi is undertaken mainly for the silk yarn and by dyers many of whom have been in this skill since long. The silk yarn dying process takes about 45 to 60 minutes depending on the color.

      3. After dyeing the yarn is loosened or wound on reels or swiftons. This is a prelude to the preparation of the warp and weft.

      4. For the weft the yarn is wound on pirns with the help of a charkha and this activity is usually performed by the members of weavers family. Warping is a specialized process, which is performed by the warpers. The warp yarns are wound on bobbins, which are arranged across a wooden frame called reel. The yarns from these reels pass through a reed to be wound around a vertical drum. A warper in good times would warp 4 or 5 warps for 12 sarees each.

      5. The next step is the task of passing the warp through the reed and the healds. The warp threads are then joined to the old war threads with a deft twist of the hand of the women folk. This process takes approx 3-4 days.

      6. Before the actual weaving begins the weaver sets the design of the border and the pallav. The respective ends of the design are tied to the a vertical harness called jala and the process is called jala tyeing. This process takes anywhere between 3-4 days depending on the complexity of the design. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft and the number of tillis (or the no of weft yarns will determine the time taken). That is higher the number more will be the time taken. However the time reduces if the number of ply in the weft yarn is more and consequently the weaver can move faster and cover more ground. However in this case the output is less fine. Similarly higher the reed count more is the production time.

      7. The weaving is performed by one or two very skilled weavers of the same family. The looms being used are largely traditional pit looms with throw shuttle.

      8. The Chanderi fabric does not require any post loom process and is cut off the loom to be packed and sold. It is packed as per the requirement of the buyer and of the trader by way of customized packing methods.

        In addition to the above a separate map showing the process of manufacturing is annexed herewith and is marked as Annexure E.

    11. UNIQUENESS:

      The Chanderi Fabric is known for the centuries for its transparency, Buttis and sheer texture

      BUTTIS/ BUTTA "MOTIFS":

      Since the inception of the Chanderi fabric and primarily ladies Sarees, the butiis on the Fabric are hand-woven and absolutely woven on Handloom. There is no use of any other process of manufacturing and it is Gold coated, Silver coated and as well as Copper coated. Now a days Tested Zari Butti are also common and in use. The Tested Zari is made with the use of Synthetic yarn. The Buttis are made by use of Needles. Number of Needles used depends upon the number of Buttis and its size. For each Butti/Butta separate Needles are used. All the weavers involved in this process are experts in it since they have been doing this for long time. The most popular and traditional kind of Butti is Asharfi Butti, which is in shape of Asharfi (woven in pure gold and silver Zari and now a day it is also woven in Tested Zari). This kind of Butti was in use in past only by the Royal families because it is very expensive as genuine Gold and Silver is used. The Butti which is big is size is popularly called as Butta with all other specifications. More so and it is there ancestral business and trade. The weavers involved in this process are long standing in trade and are well experienced. The Govt. from time to time also spends money and conduct workshops to train and educate them about the latest design and its quality control. The handmade Buttis are at Chanderi permanent in its nature and its existence as well, inter laced and its original shape and structure always remain the same even after its long use. Whereas in comparison the Buttis created with the use of Power loom are not permanent and losses its shape and structure after some time. The thread used is of fine quality and even after long use its thread never comes out and its original shape and appearance is retained forever. It has no comparison anywhere else in the country or for that reasons in whole of the world. . It is easily distinguishable from the Buttis made outside Chanderi even with necked eyes because of its manner and process of manufacture and in this manner it is exclusive and this itself is requisite ingredient for legal protection and for exclusive recognition. Initially the use of this quality and products has been a matter of use by the Royal families, which for a long time is used by the common man.

      TRANSPARECNY
      The Chanderi Fabric is also well known for its transparency and sheer texture. The transparency is a unique feature, which is not commonly or found in any of the textile products all over the country. The transparency in Chanderi Fabric products is the consequence of Single Flature quality of yarn used. Flature yarn is the quality of yarn when the Glue of the raw yarn is not taken out. The none- degumming of the raw yearn gives shine and transparency to the finished fabric. This quality is not found in any other Fabric of the country and it is exclusive to the Chanderi Fabric. The special transparent yarn is used both in warp and weft of different varieties and configurations. The transparent yarn is cotton and as well as silk also.

      The silk yarn used of 2/2's, 2/100's and 16/18 denier. The term Denier connotes the fineness of yarn. The cotton uses in Chanderi Fabric is 2/120's, 2/100's (plain yarn) and 2/120 and 2/100 mercerized yarns. The yarn used in Chanderi fabric is of high quality and extra fine. Because of non-degumming of the raw yarn, the finished fabric produced is extremely transparent and which in consequence result into sheer texture.

      This quality of the Chanderi Fabric is in existence since Moghul times and found mention if the Govt. gazetteer and various other history books written on Chanderi. This type of Fabric produced is family business in Chanderi and all the family members are involved in this process irrespective of caste and creed.

    12. INSPECTION BODY:

      At Present State Govt. of Madhya Pradesh is involved in quality control of the Chanderi fabric and all of its products. The Government of Madhya Pradesh is also stamping the quality products against usual charges. The Govt. has laid down specific Rules in this respect and they are issuing Cards to the producer/ weaver whosoever applies to them for stamping the quality and specifications. The copies of there Rules and stamps are enclosed herewith and are marked as Annexure F.

      Lately, the UNIDO (United Nations Industrial Development Organization) is also actively involved in educating the weavers and other people involved in this trade about the quality control, process of manufacturing with effective market option and market strategies and other development activities relating to the weavers of Chanderi Fabric. They have made serious various in quality controls, educating weavers about marketing, and awareness to the women weavers as well.

      Even at the level of the traders and master weavers involved in trading the quality of its products is maintained as per the orders and demand in market. The quality of Fabric products is identified by term called REED i.e. (ends per inch) meaning the number of threads used per inch in warp and PICK per inch i.e. the number of threads used per inch in weft.

    13. OTHER: The details of the historical background of Chanderi Fabric and its textile products is mentioned in the statement of case along with the present application


    Along with the Statement of Case in Class 24 in respect of in the name(s) of whose address is who claims to represent the interest of the producers of the said goods to which the geographical indication relates and which is in continuous use since in respect of the said goods.

  2. The application shall include such other particulars called for in Rule 32(1) in the Statement of Case.

  3. All Communications relating to this application may be sent to the following address in India.

    Vinay Kumar Jain, Advocate
    Paul Jain & Company
    Advocates & consultants
    14, Arjun Nagar, Safdarjung Enclave
    New Delhi
    Tel: 91 (11) 26196001
    098 910 55554

  4. In the case of an application from a convention country the following additional particulars shall also be furnished

    NOT APPLICABLE

    1. Designation of the country of origin of the Geographical Indication.

    2. Evidence as to the existing protection of the Geographical Indication in its country of origin, such as the title and the date of the relevant legislative or administrative provisions, the judicial decisions or the date and number of the registration, and copies, of such documentation.

      NAME OF THE SIGNATORY

      THROUGH

      Vinay Kumar Jain, Advocate
      Paul Jain& Company
      Advocates & consultants
      14, Arjun Nagar, Safdarjung Enclave
      New Delhi



STATEMENT OF CASE
  1. The handloom Textiles constitute a timeless facet of the rich cultural heritage of India. As an economic activity, the Handloom sector occupies a place next only to agriculture in providing livelihood to the people. The element of art and craft present in India handlooms makes it a potential sector for the upper segments of the market both domestic and as well as International. Handloom forms a precious part of the generational legacy and exemplifies the richness and diversity of our country and the artistry of the weavers. Tradition of weaving by hand is a part of the country’s rich cultural ethos.

  2. Handloom is unparalleled in its flexibility and versatility, permitting experimentation and encouraging innovation. Innovative weavers with their skilful blending of myths, faiths symbols and imagery provide the fabric an appealing dynamism. The strength of handloom lies in introducing innovative design, which cannot be replicated by the power loom sector. The Govt. of India and various NGO’s are working in different part of our country to provide various kind of social, economic and legal protection to the handloom sector in various ways in order to make it sustainable in itself. There have been constructive efforts to provide them with legal ownership as well. As a result of the same handloom sector has been able to tide over some of its disadvantages. One of such Handloom cluster in India is Chanderi.

  3. Chanderi, a township having a very rich & glorious historical heritage and past is situated in the hills of Vindhyachal range having a population of 30,000. This township located close to Betwa river and which presently forms part of District Ashok Nagar (previously Guna) in the State of Madhya Pradesh, India. It had flourished a focal point of Central India with intensive economic activity.

  4. Phonetically Chanderi is linked with the Chandelas. Chanderi was first settled and fortified in the 11th Century by the Pratihara king Kirtipal.

  5. The foundation of this township goes back to the Chandella King, Kirtivarma, Prince of Mahoba in the years 1060 – 1100 AD. The place of the city is also related to the name of “Chandella”. Historically speaking Chanderi, Chandrapuram, Chandragiri etc. are well known names in Indian topography. The first certain reference to Chanderi in a written source is found in Barani who relates the successful attack of Ghiyas al Din Balban against the city in 1251 AD. However, the Muslims did not settle in Chanderi before its Conquest in 1305 AD by Ala al Din Khilji. It is in 1305 AD around 20,000 people from a place called “Lakhnoti” in Bengal (presently in Dhaka) migrated to Chanderi as followers of Maulana Majibuddin Usuf and after migration these people started the production of Muslin/Malmal.

  6. Chanderi remained in the hands of Bundelas until 1811. The Craftsmanship and the weaving work were continued by all the Muslim rulers of the City. In the Government Gazetteer Chanderi has been mentioned as long famous city for the manufacture of delicate Muslins, an industry that is still carried on. The cloth/fabric manufactured here is of unusual fineness while the colored silk and gold borders are of great beauty. A common saying refers to this Industry:-

    Shahr Chanderi mominwara
    Tiria raj, khasam panihara
    In Chanderi town a city of weavers
    The wives rule while husbands carry water.
    The origin of the saying is said to be the fact that weavers must keep their hands soft.

  7. Chanderi is not only for its historical monuments and events but is also rich in its tradition called Chanderi Fabric or Silk products intricately and exclusively woven by hand. Since the last 500 years, this cottage industry is creating Sarees, safe, dupattas, patches, Pagdis, & other dress material especially for royal families and higher societies. Interspersed with the delicacy that has for times immemorial satisfied the refined tastes of Royalty. It was once prosperous and the nobility here actively nurtured its crafts. It is in this town that a unique textile came to be born i.e. the Chanderi Fabric, using either Silk or Cotton or both amalgamation of this fabric became celebrated for its sheer quality and texture and for its exquisite brocade work. The mainstay of Chanderi is of course is its weavers who have held its culture together across religion and social strata. Although sustained at one time or another by imperial patronage commercial interests or welfare measures the success of the trade received no concerted attention till the early 20th Century when Madhav Rao Scindia of Gwalior took far sighted measures. There was substantial increase in the number of looms, but the exploitative stranglehold of the merchants continued till Jiyaji Rao Scindia initiated much needed action. The Training Centre established in 1910 by his father was enlarged and “Chanderi Textile” and “Weavers” cooperatives formed. Attempts were made to bring back and rehabilitate weavers and to ensure the supply of raw material, wages and improve marketing.

  8. Over the last centuries Chanderi has evolved as a center for excellence for weaving gold embellished fabrics mainly, sarees, for the erstwhile royalty and elite.

  9. Chanderi has been originally producing three kinds of fabric:

    1. Pure silk – where the warp as well as the weft is woven in 13/15 and 16/18 denier silk.

    2. Chanderi cotton – where the warp and weft are 120's to 200's cotton. The Chanderi muslins have been known to be superior to Dacca muslins because of the softness and feel; this was traditionally achieved through the use of koli kanda a local wild onion which was used for sizing. Today this quality has been discontinued.

    3. Silk Cotton – the weaver deftly combines 13/15-denier warp with 100s/120s cotton in the weft.

  10. The figured effects are produced with the help of an extra weft design, which is a special feature of Chanderi. Initially zari was used for the figured motifs.

  11. If we compare Chanderi to Varanasi brocades some interesting facts emerge:

    • While Varanasi has beautiful designs only in silk, the designs of Chanderi can be seen both in cotton and silk fabrics.

    • While the Chanderi weaver can deftly manipulate 13/15 denier, the Varanasi weaver is used to handling 20/22 denier.

    • The Chanderi muslin, which has been discontinued today, has a definite superiority over the Dacca muslin due to its traditional sizing techniques.

    • Chanderi has been known for its strong construction and fast colors.

    • Gold thread was often the medium of figured "Buttis" Motifs and the products ranged from sarees for the elite and the royal families of Indore and Gwalior, safas or long scarfs for weddings and cotton pagris which were adorned by the royalty themselves.

  12. The inception and existence of Chanderi Fabric has undergone changes with the changing times for last several hundreds years. Significantly in the year 1890 the Chanderi weavers changed from hand spun yarn to mill made yarn. The Royal family of Sindhia brought the Chanderi Fabric and more importantly the Chanderi Sarees under their patronage and also established a Training Center namely District Handloom Office and Training Centre in the year 1910. This is working for imparting training to weavers in various respect such as quality control, colouring and designing and latest developments in the weaving. As a result of which gold thread motifs came into existence in the main body of the Cotton Muslin Saree. The Training Center so established is still in existence and is playing a vital role for educating the weavers regarding the quality, dying and the manner and the process of manufacturing the fabric. In the recent times the State Government took well-conceived steps to increase production and productivity. The Govt. has also established a Shuttle looms and warping machines were particularly effective. By 1976 there were as many as 1145 looms. In a logical outcome, the state Textile Corporation found that it could no longer effectively market the increased produce. To curb renewed exploitation by the merchants, cooperative credit societies were set up to finance craftsmen and the availability of raw material was ensured. Marketing facilities were improved and the Design Centre strengthened.

  13. Till early 1960 two weavers were sitting together to weave Sarees on handloom. With the introduction of Fly Shuttle in early sixties, one weaver started handling one loom thereby increasing the productivity per person to double and this helped immensely in improving the income and the living standard of the Chanderi Weavers. With the introduction of the Dobby and Jacquards on Handlooms, it is now easier and faster to weave small and big complicated designs giving a new look and variety to the Chanderi Sarees. Dobby (for small boarder designs) and jacquards (for big boarder designs) is a mechanism, which used to make designs easier and faster.

  14. For the last several years, there is a demand of dress material in Chanderi fabrics and so popular in markets all over India.

  15. From the year 1975 in view of the changing demand scenario of the customers, this cluster started producing another variety of fabric, which combined a silk warp with a cotton weft. Thereafter since 1976 and till date various Government Agencies, Organizations such as M.P State Textile Corporation, M.P Hasthashilpa Vikas Nigam and the M.P State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Federation are also contributing to the cause of the weavers and are providing them with the marketing opportunities and the means to control quality. Today thousands of Looms provide employment directly and indirectly for roughly more than half of its total population. Government efforts have clearly succeeded in maintaining weaving as the mainstay of Chanderi’s economy.

  16. In the Mughal rules Chanderi produced a great variety of garments such as Dupattas, Lugaras, Pagris (Turbans), Sarees. In the year 1925 the use of silver and gold threads to produce Zari cloth started and in 1940 use of Indian Silk in Tana (Warp) and Cotton in Bana (Weft) begun. In 1975 silk was used both in Tana and Bana. Since 1993, 20-22 deniers silk has been used for Tana and 2/120 mercerized cotton thread in Bana for weaving sarees and other dress material for women.

  17. Various studies and reports prepared on Chanderi shows that Chanderi weavers used to manufacture deluxe cloth mainly for the Maratha Princely Courts.

  18. The textile institute run by the M.P. Government now known as Government Handloom Training Centre is also engaged in quality control, standardization, designing and publicity. This Centre is also exercising the power of stamping the genuiness of fabric made in Chanderi.

  19. In Chanderi 60% of its population is directly or indirectly involved in the business of manufacturing and trading the Chanderi Fabric and its various products as mentioned in the enclosed list of products. This trade in Chanderi consists of three major categories i.e. traders, master weavers and weavers. The social composition of the class of master weavers expressed in terms of caste has changed over the years. The muslims had a monopoly of saree trade in 1857. Jain’s and Maheshwari’s are set to have migrated from Northwestern Rajasthan in the 19th Centuary. The Kolis are relatively new comers at least in Saree trade. In the 1940’s and 50’s Brahmins dominated the saree trade.

  20. Chanderi at present has an estimated population of 30,000. Half of these are estimated to be muslims and the other half is made up of Hindus and Jains. The population of Chanderi is dominantly engaged in nonagricultural occupations. The percentage of population estimated to be dependant on Handloom weaving and allied industry (yarn dealers, traders, warpers, dyers etc.) is to the tune of 60%. It has around 3600 looms in working conditions 18,000 people are directly or indirectly dependent on this industry for their living.

  21. Today Chanderi is famous for its brocades and muslins, especially for its hand-woven Chanderi Sarees. It is a renowned center for traditional weavers of Sarees intricately woven silk and cotton weaves. Fringed with beautiful borders, in soft subtle hues that please the senses are masterfully woven with great artistry by weavers who untiringly create lovely designs. The Chanderi Sarees have sophistication hard to match. The Chanderi produces various kinds of Sarees, which are mentioned below: -

    The composition of the three major business community in Chanderi Fabric as under: -

    TRADERS
    The trades have been the main stay of marketing of Chanderi Fabric and its various products since 1920. They are knowingly Jains and Maheshwaris and belong to an affluent class of society. They have good marketing contacts, a fairly good sense of design innovation and a self built capital base. The traders have directed part of their chapter in up-gradation of looms and design and partially in sectors other than weaving .

    MASTER WEAVERS
    This category of weavers have been weavers for decades and today they are mainly traders who undertake the overall responsibility of taking orders and getting them executed. They also own looms and also get weaving done on contractual basis.

    THE WEAVER
    The small weaver belonging to Muslim community (accounting for 70% of the total) and the Hindu community (about 30%) largely lives at a subsistence level.
  22. Only a very small percentage has been able to provide a good living standard to their families, comprising of education and the necessary consumables. Only some families have been able to undertake loom up-gradation.

  23. Chanderi is historically well also known and owns unblemished and unchequered reputation for its unique sarees with rich woven embellishments. The Fabric used for manufacturing sarees with its unique characteristics has immense potential for conversion of diverse products and for global markets. The weavers at Chanderi were producing and manufacturing for royal families initially and they consumed all its products exclusively because of special quality and appearance. History of Chanderi itself speaks about the existence of this trade for centuries.

  24. The Chanderi Fabric and all its products i.e. either silk, silk by cotton, cotton by silk is totally hand weaven with the yarn procured as per requirements from the various parts of the country having specific and requisite specifications. Chanderi fabrics is known for its light weight and natural threads used, which has no bad effect on human body. It products are known for its uniqueness i.e. the transparency and permanent Buttis. The fabrics produced are well known for its stiffness, softness, colorfastness and sheer transparent texture. These products have no environmental involvements and also do not result into any environmental hazard. The products of Chanderi for the ages are known by its name and uniqueness and its popularity gained because of uniqueness has been exploited by the traders and manufacturers of the other parts of the country. The nature and configuration of Fabric and other products of Chanderi has seen changes, but the basic quality and unique features such as Transparency and Buttis have always been maintained. In other words, the kingdoms have disappeared but the weaving tradition that they once nurtured is still alive in the lanes and by-lanes of Chanderi. Numbers of traditional looms are still in existence and over number of years and with the active development support of the State of MP Government and other Govt. agencies and NGO’s large number of looms have come up. These looms with Fly-shuttle, Jacquards and Dobbies are more productive. However in spite of these developments, the essential vocabulary of the fabric has remained intact and weaving the Chanderi is still very demanding. The ornate gold brocades may well have disappeared now but what is still present is the weavers poetry, their sensibilities and the sheer magic of Chanderi. Today the Chanderi Cluster produces a wide range of Saress, scarves and dress material. These products are highly sought after by discerning consumers all over India and the exquisite craftsmanship shows through as brilliantly as ever. The other quality, characteristics and uniqueness of Chanderi Fabric have been only already explained in the forgoing paras of this application.

  25. Presently there are 3000 active looms in Chanderi and women plays a substantial role in the production process, because of their soft hands, which is essentially required to produce soft clots/ Fabric. It is a process that provides employment to 18,000 inhabitants and it is enchanting as the heritage craft. The traditional woodworker still makes the looms and repairs them. Preparatory work is still carried out in the narrowest lanes with the family members pitching in. In fact every day Chanderi wakes up to sympathy of lyrical motions, sounds and colours. Various Government agencies both at State and Central Level are actively involved in protection of the trade at Chanderi. The Govt. of Madhya Pradesh has joined hands with United Nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO) using cluster development approach with an object of arming the wavers and artisans of Chanderi more dynamic. It has already helped weavers and traders to come together to form their own collectives so that they can address some critical issues, design, marketing and building a brand image of Chanderi in world market and to protect the our rich national heritage. The trade at Chanderi that is based upon Handloom also needs protection with the advent of power looms. The products, which are contemporary that has a wider range. However, the special characteristic of Chanderi Fabric such as transparency, Butti and sheer texture cannot be achieved with the use of power looms.

  26. In the aforesaid given circumstances it is thus apparent that the Chanderi Fabric and its products meets and requisite legal needs and this qualify for legal protection, so that it national heritage can be protected and so that its products can be legally recognized and are not duplicated/ copied and also in tune with the sensibilities of consumers in the more demanding markets all over the world and also to provide a legal umbrella to the products of Chanderi in tune with the sensibilities of consumers in more demanding markets all over the world.

BEFORE THE REGISTRAR OF GEOGRAPHICAL INDICATIONS:
CHENNAI

IN THE MATTER OF:
REGISTRATION OF CHANDERI FABRIC

A F F I D A V I T

I Nirmal Chand Jain son of resident of Sadar Bazar, Jain Mandir Road, Chanderi, District Ashok Nagar, Madhya Pradesh President of the Chanderi Development Foundation having its office at Chanderi and presently at N. Delhi do hereby solemnly affirm and declare as under:-

  1. That I am the President of the Chanderi Development Foundation and is responsible for the day to day affirm of the said Foundation and is also well conversant with the facts and circumstances of the case and am competent to depose the present affidavit.

  2. I say that the contents of the present affidavit are true and correct to the best of my knowledge and belief and believed to be correct on the basis of records of the case made available to me. The legal submissions made herein are believed to be correct on advice received.

  3. I say that I have been authorised by the Managing Committee of the Chanderi Development Foundation to take up the cause of the registration of Geographical Indications of Chanderi Fabric and in pursuance of the same the accompanying application has been proposed to be filed.

  4. I say that the Chanderi Development Foundation is registered under the provisions of Societies Registration Act and is a No-Profit making organization/ Body having no personal interest of any individual in the business at Chanderi. I further say that the same has been constituted with the object of upliftment of the historical and traditional business and trade of Chanderi Fabric and as well as for providing legal cover to the weavers and other traders so that the business can be protect from its infringements from outsiders. A certified copy of its registration and Memorandum & Article of Association is annexed herewith and is marked as Annexure A-1.

  5. I say that the Chanderi Development Foundation (In short CDF) consist of person from various religion, caste and societies and as well as women of Chanderi. This has been formed in pursuance of the active involvement of United nations Industrial Development Organization (UNIDO), which is rendering its valuable assistance and spending money under its Cluster Development Projects in India for Poverty alleviation, and upliftment of the weavers on No Profit basis. It is also imparting technical assistance in quality control and market strategies with the active involvement of Madhya Pradesh State Government.

  6. I say that the Govt. of India and as well as the state Govt. of M.P. is actively involved in granting various assistance to the Handloom sector and at Chanderi as well. There have been serious constructive efforts on various accounts to provide the weavers of Chanderi with legal ownership and educate them about the various financial assistance available and with the fast changing markets scenario.

  7. I say that in order to provide legal ownership to the weavers of Chanderi and its artisan’s cluster, the registration of its products is necessary. It is also required so that restricted/ diminishing business due to it misuse of the typical product by the sub-standard and mechanized firms who are mass producing those items and eating substantial into the potential market of the Chanderi weavers/ artisans. The weavers are thus keen to have legal protection against its misuse and economic invasion. Handloom, which is next to agriculture in providing employment and job opportunities to the people of India, needs to given legal protection so that it is able to fight with the Handloom Sector and generate a congenial and healthy environment.

  8. I say that the people involved in the process of manufacturing Chanderi Fabric and its trading have been apprised of the present application and registration of Geographical Indications and its legal implications. The detailed list of weavers and Master Weavers, Traders as prepared by the District Handloom and Training Center at Chanderi under the control and supervision of Govt. of Madhya Pradesh is filed along with the present application of registration. It is thus clear that the interest of all the person involved in this activities have been duly taken care.

  9. I say that the applicant society thus represents the larger interests of all the groups involved in process of manufacturing of Chanderi Fabric and its further trading. The Weavers and Master Weavers and Traders as well.

DEPONENT

VERIFICATION:
Verified at Delhi on this day of March 2004 that the contents of the above affidavit are true and correct to the best of knowledge and belief. Nothing material has been concealed there from.



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